Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
